As a person who has been lucky enough to eat gua bao at a night market in Taiwan, sip a riesling from the Rheinhessen region while dining at a three-star Michelin restaurant in Cologne, Germany, and who developed a certain level of snobbery about cheese and chocolate while sampling the best of these in France, I can, with some degree of authority, say that experiencing cultures through food and drink is the absolute best way to travel.
If you happen to be traveling to the Jersey Shore this summer, or if you’re lucky enough to live here and you happen to be reading this issue of Night & Day, there are several dining options within this publication’s circulation area that allow you to immerse yourself in different cultures, while simultaneously offering you the best of what we have to offer right here at the Jersey Shore. Those dining options include Heirloom St. Laurent on 7th Avenue in Asbury Park and Lita on Route 34 in Aberdeen Township.
On close inspection, you may notice that both of these restaurants have some things in common, not the least of which is their team leads, Neilly Robinson and James Beard-nominated Chef David Viana. The Heirloom in Old Bridge, the Heirloom St. Laurent and Lita boast beautiful open views of their kitchen areas, and architectures that allow delighted visitors clear viewing of their chefs grating parmesan, manning the cooktops, and cutting fruit to accompany elegant cocktails.
The bars at these restaurants are truly top-shelf. On a recent visit to Heirloom St. Laurent, hard-to-find Japanese whiskeys could easily be spotted sitting next to top-of-the-line aged Scotches.
But as with all things, the devil is in the details, and it’s their detailed differences that make all three locations worth a visit.
According to Lita’s website, this third restaurant from Robinson and Viana is the “story of David’s family.” The restaurant is named for Viana’s mother, Rosa Lita, and serves as an homage to his Portuguese roots and the food he learned to cook from his family.
As a person who has happily popped rissois de camarao, which is a type of shrimp turnover, in my mouth while overlooking the mouth of the Douro River in Porto, Portugal, I can personally attest that Viana’s shrimp meal, and the porco “Alentejana” are as close as you are going to get to eating in Portugal without the initial 7-hour plane ride.
The menu at Heirloom St. Laurent clearly takes its inspiration from its historic hotel surroundings, which is one of the oldest operating hotels in the city. According to its website, the menu at Heirloom St. Laurent is focused on “hyperseasonal, fresh ingredients,” and the fact that the restaurant is located just a short walk from Asbury Park’s beautiful beaches shine through in the food. Octopus and NJ tilefish were featured on a recently-posted prix fixe dinner menu. Seafood also was featured on the lunch menu, including New England clam chowder croquettes, with robust morsels of little necks found throughout.
The mixologists at all locations are, simply put, artists. Over at Lita, Bar Manager Ricardo Rodriquez’s cocktail menu of course takes its inspiration from Iberian spirits, including the popular Tinto De Verano, which is made with a red table wine.
Speaking of wine, the wine list at Heirloom is a nod to the fact that the hotel was initially female-owned, and honors that tradition. On the wine list, Robinson writes: “Like everything here at The St. Laurent, all of the wines we offer have been touched by the hands of a woman. Our carefully curated, women-focused wine list is composed of distinctive selections cultivated by boutique producers and growers dedicated to farming with integrity. We celebrate these women…”
As Robinson’s note hints at, New Jersey has a rich history, and that rich history includes fine dining. I can honestly say that even with my travel background, Jersey restaurants rate among the finest of dining establishments in the world (and yes, Michelin Guide, if you’re paying attention, we deserve a few stars here too!)
As you thumb through the following pages of outstanding restaurants mentioned in this issue that dot the Jersey Shoreline, the editors of Night & Day hope that you’ll be inspired to create your own culinary journey, right here. While you’re at it, why not make a reservation for our local 2024 James Beard semifinalist among your must-do foodie visits this summer?